Day 14 Longformacus to Cockburnspath and THE FINISH!

And so to the ‘denouement’!

After a DIY breakfast in our room we set off back to Longformacus, 6 miles away, for the final leg of the SUW to Cockburnspath just away from the east coast. However we were held up by a large procession of riders on horseback coming into town as part of the Reivers Festival. But we weren’t bothered and it was quite nice to watch the approximately 130 riders – men, women and children of all ages – pass us, greeting and chatting to them.

We did finally get going and Noelene dropped me at the small road leading to Longformacus church. I set off up the road in very misty/foggy weather. The SUW soon left the small road heading across moorland and fields with no views at all due to the fog. When I came to another small road there was a police car with lights flashing and a woman with a banner. I asked what was happening and the police officer told me that the horse riders from Duns, obviously the ones we’d watched setting off earlier, were coming.

I climbed as they approached and it was quite eerie watching them appear out of the mist. They passed me by and passed the time of day. Some were very jolly and sipping from hip flasks, others more dour, presumably maintaining the official balance of Scottish atmosphere.

The walk continued along wide forest trails, narrow woodland paths and farm tracks and then on another splendid bridge across a small river called Whiteadder Water (Blackadder Water’s brother!), then across fields to a cluster of houses and a farm called Abbey St. Bathans. Near Blackburn Mill a diversion was signed, supposedly to avoid a farm and dogs but I think that the farmer just didn’t want walkers near his farm and had ‘illegally’ put the sign up to deter the likes of me. I tried to follow the diversion but it wasn’t marked so I headed to the ‘official’ path near the farm and climbed a fence back onto the proper trail. Dogs were barking like mad things but they were all in cages and there was no problem for me so I just carried on walking.

Shortly after Abbey St. Bathans I came across a cairn and memorial to Whiteburn Airfield – one of the many small airfields mainly used for Home Defence patrols during World War 1.  It opened in 1916 and closed just a year after the war ended.  I thought it good that it, and those who’d served there, hadn’t been forgotten.

I continued through forests and met a 75-year-old man coming the other way who was doing stages of the SUW. He said how wonderful it was and I agreed with him, though I did think of the dreadful 23 miles from Wanlockhead to Moffat in terrible weather. He was amazed that I, two years older than him, was doing it in one go and I guess I am lucky to still be able to do so.

I reached and (very carefully) crossed the busy A1 before following the East Coast Main Railway Line for a while before heading into Penmanshiel Wood where I chatted to a local guy taking his dog for a walk. Not long after I crossed a small road and headed down a path with my first view of the sea. I suddenly realised that I’d almost done it. It was a wonderful experience and I became ‘a tad emotional’!

Before long I was at Pease Bay with its horrendous caravan park and then climbed to the cliffs heading for the small harbour of Cove. I walked along the cliffs for a mile or so with a fine view of the harbour, met Noelene and we walked down to the beach, symbolically dipping our hands in the sea and collecting a stone to take home. It was very special, and considerably more dignified than much of the preceding fortnight.

We walked back to the top of the cliffs, Noelene to the car to meet me at Cockburnspath 1½ miles away and me back to the SUW for the finish.  I followed the path under the railway line and the A1 into the centre of the small village where – unlike at Portpatrick – there is nothing but an ancient cross to mark the end of one of the toughest walks I’d ever done.  I crossed the non-existent finishing line, posed for the finisher’s photos and opened the small bottle of celebratory Prosecco that Noelene had provided!😊

There being nowhere to stay in Cockburnspath we headed down the coast to the very nice town of Eyemouth and the excellent and friendly Glenerne guest house with a wonderful welcome from Rachel. I showered, changed and we headed into town but, not finding anywhere to eat with a table available and good food, we went to the recommended Saffron Indian Restaurant (the second Saffron of the walk!) for a very good meal, but lousy beer. But I suppose one must leave room in life for disappointment.

So that was it – another long distance path done and I felt a little emotional that it was over. But, as I am constantly reminded, many more await

I asked myself four questions:

Was I sorry that the walk was over?    No

Did I enjoy it?                                   Mostly

Would I do it again?                           No

Will I do other long distance walks?    Yes, for as long as I can

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Click HERE to download the .gpx file of today’s walk

Some Photos From Day 14