The Two Breweries Walk!

Day 4 – Friday 12th July 2024 – Twice Brewed to Walton, 18.09 miles

I’d intended setting off from Twice Brewed at 9:30 as today’s longer walk was likely to be a “toughie”.  But there was a really splendid breakfast to enjoy and it was almost 10 when I finally set off and after the obligatory starting photos I walked back up the road and the less than half mile back to the trail which, here, is also the Pennine Way (of very fond memories from 24 years ago).  The two diverged after a while with the Pennine Way heading north to Bellingham and the Hadrian’s Wall Path continuing along its namesake.

The “main event” continued up hill and down dale for seemingly mile after mile and much tougher going than any of the 3 days’ walks so far. but it was fascinating with “lots of wall” and loads of Milecastles, Turrets and other “Romania” to see and read about – so progress was relatively slow. Noelene met me at Shield-on-the Wall (with not a shield in sight and not much of anything, to be honest) and kindly drove my passport back to Housesteads to be stamped as I’d forgotten to do so yesterday and was fearful of not being allowed to cross the border into Cumbria later in the day!

The wall continued to undulate – seemingly, as ever, more up than down and with the rough terrain and wearing my Meindl lightweight boots, my feet began to ache, especially the right one and I was fearful that a condition I’d suffered from and had treated some years ago – Morton’s Neuroma – was returning.

There were increasingly excellent views to the north and the faraway hills of the Lake District could be seen in the distance and you could well imagine the hoards of Picts sweeping across the countryside trying to take the wall and doing battle with the Legionnaires most of whom didn’t come from Rome and had probably never been so far north.

I met many of the walkers who were in the pub last night, slowly overtaking them.  there was the German family I’d seen on the very first day and Lisa, the American woman whose friend had dropped out due to blisters. I walked along with her for a while and we had quite a chat.  She was from Alaska, now living in Arizona (talk about opposites!) because that’s where her kids and grandkids lived. Nice woman, steadily plodding along. Together we reached Thirwall Castle where I went my own (slightly wrong!) way – ostensibly to take a better look at the ruins!

There was another “diversion” not much further along (and this one was not my fault) at Gilsland where I went up and down a short stretch of the track three times before finding the correct path.  The trail had apparently been “temporarily” diverted about 10 years ago!

Shortly after I entered Cumbria with no problems because the border guards were on their tea break, though my passport was in order just in case!  The walk then follows the lovely River Irthing (which I’d never heard of before!).  Along with the North Tyne and the Eden it’s one of the three rivers that the Romans had to bridge.  The most recent crossing of the Irthing is a very elegant and attractive footbridge at which I tarried for a while.

Before (and after) the bridge was a long stretch of wall looking remarkably well preserved , though probably reconstructed by English Heritage.  If so, then well done English Heritage!

I met Noelene again at the Birdoswald Visitors’ Centre, had my packed lunch from Twice Brewed (very nice) and stamped my passport again before heading off across fields running parallel to the wall with long stretches again visible and eventually reaching the small village of Banks.  Here there was another “temporary” diversion before what seemed to be an endless climb up a road into another small village – Walton – our destination for the night, staying at The Old Vicarage Brewery and B&B.

The Old Vicarage is wonderful and we voted it the best overnight stay of the whole walk.  The hosts, who ducked out of the rat race in Oxford some years ago are lovely, welcoming and helpful.  We had the very roomy Coach House with lovely views over the countryside and it was the cheapest stop (£95) of the entire trip. We heartily recommend it.

After a shower and change we were forced down to the bar to try a couple of the in-house beers (Turret 56, I think) which were very tasty and then to their small dining room for a simple, but delicious dinner of lasagne and garlic bread – the only item on the menu!

And then off to relax, write in my journal and read for a bit before a good night’s zzzzzzzz.

Day 4 Impressions

Day 4 was a hard, long walk but rewarded with wonderful views and lots of Roman stuff to see.  I was very taken with the River Irthing bridge and the long stretches of wall before and after it.  The weather was okay which made it very pleasant and for most of the day the trail was away from roads, another bonus point. I think the hardest but best day so far, beginning with the excellent Twice Brewed Breakfast, capped of with the wonderful Old Vicarage B&B.

Some Day 4 Photos